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16 May 2009

Days in Idaho and the push to Missoula

Idaho ended up being a land of extremes for us and our little journey. The ups and downs of the hills, of which there are plenty, were the biggest we’ve faced yet. The temperature and weather fluctuated more quickly and more drastically than we’ve seen and the people we met were both weird in an incredible way and weird in the way that you really hope they don’t know where your sleeping. I’m sure that Idaho has its perks and its seasons, but early May on narrow road shoulders turned out to be a poor way to fall in love with the state. 

One of the best parts of the Trans Am trail in Idaho is that it is constantly following rivers. We tracked the Snake, the Little Salmon, the Salmon and eventually the Lochsa before climbing the hill to Montana. The rivers help control the grade of the road and provide for some incredible camp spots, but they also come with tight winding roads and strong winds that whip through canyons. 

Following our stay under the power lines at the foot of the Brownlee River Dam, we traversed to New Meadows, Idaho and followed the Little Salmon down rte. 95 towards Grangeville.

We got some interesting weather after our sunny lunch in New Meadows. Yes, those are snow flakes (May 13). 

img_2906Snow in the valley. Two particular local characters told us on separate occasions that “If you don’t like the weather in Idaho, wait 15 minutes.” We then proceeded to follow their advice four times that same afternoon waiting out weather. I’ve now waited a couple days to say this, I don’t like the weather in Idaho. 
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Little valley spot outside Riggins. We met Don, who worked for the state doing road work, and the couple that owned the place, who thought Don’s employer was a joke and couldn’t handle any task payed for by their tax dollars. This was prime time character watching and we probably polished three cups of bad coffee each waiting out the weather and listening to the good folks rant. Our bill came to 74 cents, no lie. I tipped well over 100 percent. (the owner below keeping an eye) 

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After waiting out  a wind storm in Riggins’ city park. Finding water is actually harder than we thought it would be. Lots of sulphur and other contaminants to be had. We like to pretend that if its coming out of a water fountain it’s all gravy. This particular fountain had some gusto. 

img_2927Didn’t sleep here. But we should have. 

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There is a fair amount of public land along the Salmon river. It’s a prime spot for kayakers and weirdos fishing out the back of their RVs when the weather is warmer. We found a pretty amazing spot on the water and after a good session chucking rocks into the river we settled in for some journaling and soul searching. I took this picture with a tripod and had to run up and sit down to look so natural. Survivorman style. No big deal. 

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I mentioned Idaho was a land of highs and lows. Here’s one of the better literal interpretations. White Bird at the bottom, and the summit above (center) at the end of 17 switchbacks and 3400 ft of climb.

Before:

img_2957After:img_2968Getting ready at 6 in the morning, on a sub freezing morning, in a mummy sleeping bag, leads to some problems. Today I my managed to put my shorts on inside out. It took me 12 miles to realize what the issue was. If you’re wondering what makes some days rough…there’s the rub. (You happy Sam, it’s on the blog.)

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Up Whitebird hill on the Old 95 rte. They’ve since re-routed the main road as a straight cut along the mountains. Four miles and hour up long switchbacks with no traffic means it’s time to kickback. Suns out guns out. 

img_2961img_2966More camp spots by the river. This one is in Harpster, ID by the South Fork Clearwater River. 

 

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Rain, narrow shoulders and a cold river. There are bike friendly drivers and then there are the others. The bright colors help but flashing tail lights let the world know we’re scared of Semis and RVs. Thanks to Whitney for getting me visible and for making Sam want one too.

img_2984 Gettin’ out there. img_2985Lowell is the last town before the 70 miles over Lolo Pass to Montana. We did our best to boost the population during lunch hour.

The local convenience store in Lowell does double duty as a grocery store and the headquarters of Cougar Canyon “Creative Taxidermy”––seriously. The woman behind the counter was initially really nice and seemed totally sane. At least, until she tried to legitimately sell us on a 14-hour energy drink (a real booster from that wussy 5 hour nonsense) and then expounded on the benefits of carrying handguns. We left wondering what exactly “creative taxidermy” was and what a person acted like while spun on a 14-hour energy bender.  Maybe Lowell’s 24th learned the hard way and is stuffed and life-like in the back of the shop.

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Idaho traffic jam. Lots of construction on this road. Good for staggering traffic and future cyclists (they’re making a shoulder!)

img_2988 Siracha lightning. Stupid photo, really. Double meaning for sure. img_3008  

Almost to Montana. A river runs through it. The Lochsa is a truly impressive river. 

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Halfway to our first century ride. Top of Lolo Pass at the boundary of Idaho and Montana. Little bit of snow, too. 

img_3020Found our way to Missoula. It’s graduation time in these parts. Sam’s old Holderness pal Will is putting us up in his wood shed. Missoula is awesome. These kids like their toys.

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We’re taking a day in the sunshine and enjoying some incredible hospitality and graduation feast fall out. Life is good. All is well. Keep posted for the next stretch to Ennis and meeting up with more lightningers.

This entry was posted on Saturday, May 16th, 2009 at 5:08 pm and is filed under Uncategorized. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can skip to the end and leave a response. Pinging is currently not allowed.

4 Responses to “Days in Idaho and the push to Missoula”

  1. KattyBlackyard says:
    June 14, 2009 at 9:16 pm

    The article is usefull for me. I’ll be coming back to your blog.

    Reply
  2. RTL SQUAD says:
    May 19, 2009 at 2:18 pm

    We’re having a little issue with the blog clipping photos on the right side. We assure you our framing is top of the line and it’s the formatting that makes them look like point-and-shoot photos taken from a wobbling bicycle.

    Reply
  3. pam strayer says:
    May 17, 2009 at 11:48 am

    Love the photos and the descriptions. Keep’em coming. Missula! Wow! Glad you’re having a day or two of rest.

    Reply
  4. RickH says:
    May 17, 2009 at 10:04 am

    Super good shite…. keep em comin, its much appreciated. hlurke spirit lives on at rtl

    Reply

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« PART 2
Eatin’ em up in Montana »

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